Anaview AMS1000 DIY Build Tutorial

e-mail icon
Amplifier with Anaview AMS1000 amp module

In this tutorial we'll go through the build process of an Anaveiw AMS1000-2600 class D, 2 channel bridgable amplifier module. The amplifier is highly efficient, powerful and designed by Swedish Anaview, formerly known as Abletec.

This AMS1000 build tutorial and review is long and contain a lot of pictures and information, hence this table of contents may come in useful.

  1. Intro to Anaview amplifier modules and AMS1000 in particular
  2. Sourcing of chassis, connectors and other parts for the amplifier build
  3. Anaview AMS1000 Build Tutorial
  4. Anaview AMS1000 Review
  5. Conculsions and afterthoughts about the amplifier modules

Intro to Anaview amplifier modules

style="display:inline-block;width:336px;height:280px"
data-ad-client="ca-pub-9767369813649157"
data-ad-slot="8674773368">

Anaview have a variety of amplifier modules, most of which are purchasable for consumers through ProfusionPLC.com where I bought mine. The amplifier module came extremely well packaged in a double box with lots of wrapping and they accepted Paypal as payment method which is convenient.

This was my first ever DIY amplifier project and what caught my eye with the AMS1000-2600 amplifier module is that some people say that even though they measure objectively worse than the current benchmark class D amp; Hypex Ncore NC400, these still sound subjectively better (to some). They're also known to be competitively priced, costing about $455 (with the needed cable kit) + shipping and applicable tax in your region, but more on pricing later.

First off, this is the result. Pretty plain and simple chassis layout with the possibility of 4 separate channels (if I add a second module {which I eventuelly did}) in a 2U 19" rack mount chassis with black anodized and brushed aluminum.

DIY 19\" rackmount class D amplifier

DIY amp with AMS1000-2600 from Anaview

DIY amplifier based on Anaview AMS1000-2600 class D amp module

According to the manufacturer, the AMS series are their premium modules while the older ALC series are also very capable. In fact, the PS Audio's crowd funded Sprout used the now discontinued ALC amplifier and power module.

The premium AMS series come in two main versions, the AMS1000 (which will be built here) and the smaller AMS0100 which I have a build tutorial for here. There are pros and cons to each, one being that the AMS1000 modules are more powerful while the AMS0100 has a bit better THD+N measurements to a few watts of output.

The hope for this tutorial, guide or article if you will, is to show you how a total noob can get fairly decent results without fancy tools or machinery. Hopefully this will inspire some of you to take on your own project as it was very fun!

Anaview AMS1000-2600 amplifier module

I took these high resolution images of the module and you can click them to see a bigger version if you want.

Anaview AMS1000 amplifier module

The amplifier modules are quite small, measuring only 180x166x63.5 mm (7.09x6.54x2.50") and they're pre mounted to a heatsink which is easy to install into any preferred DIY chassis of your liking.

Anaview AMS1000 class D amplifier module

Anaview AMS1000 class D amplifier module, bird's perspective

A big difference from Hypex' offerings is that these modules have a built in power supply. The advantage is a simpler form factor and the disadvantage is that you can't simply replace the power supply or amp module if one of them goes belly up. Also, Anaview's implementation is not as scalable as the Hypex modules where you can have several modules being run by one PSU and upgrade as need and/or finances allow for it.

One cool thing is that the power section of AMS1000 modules have +/-17V DC AUX output which enables you to run other boards off of its power supply. Examples could be VU meters from eBay, a DSP board or DAC board from miniDSP for example. With a passive attenuator you could have a one box integrated amp with DSP or DAC capabilities for a very decent price.

According to the (very detailed) specification sheet from Anaview (PDF) they yield the following long term power output per channel (measured at 1kHz until THD+N=1 %).

Load 2 Ohm 4 Ohm 8 Ohm
Stereo Mode (2 channels) 2x500W 2x300W 2x170W
Bridged Mode (1 channel)   900W 580W

The AMS1000-2600 modules are also very efficient and only draw about 15.5w while turned on and idling. This means they produce very little heat which in turn translates to longevity and a smaller electric bill. PROFIT!

Anaview AMS1000-2600 cable kit

To make life easier I got the $5 cable kit together with the amp module. The first (upper) connector is for audio inputs, standby, aux power and many other functions, while the second one is for the speaker output channels. Both of these cables are really long and should fit most applications.

One thing I didn't like about the 17 pinned connector with the signal cable is how thin and fragile the wires seem. Also, as I didn't need to use all the functions accessible through this cable I had to remove most of the wires. Regret I didn't get a terminal strip or a terminal block.

Terminal strip

That way I could have connected all 17 wires to that and run whatever functions I wanted from the strip as needs might change down the line.

Sourcing a chassis and other parts for the DIY amp

Most of the parts came from eBay and minor things I had laying around. The main things I got were the black 19" 2U rack chassis, Neutrik XLR and Neutrik Speakon connectors.

SL1824LB 19" rack mount chassis

 

style="display:inline-block;width:336px;height:280px"
data-ad-client="ca-pub-9767369813649157"
data-ad-slot="8057494568">

The chassis of choice were the now discontinued \$90 SL1924LB 19" full aluminum chassis bought from the eBay seller sunetec. It came in a flat pack with no instructions but was easy to assemble. However, I do think there are better options out there as \$90 for this is a bit excessive, and I later found out that the crappy chassis didn't even fit the rack standard as the mounting holes on the front panel are spaced too far apart! The current replacment from sunetec is the SG1902U 19" rack.

Other types of chassis can be bought from Italian based modushop.biz or eBay. At modushop you can also have the chassis silk screened, anodized and CNC routed for precision. This is Modushop coupon which will give you a 10 % discount on their whole inventory: 060350

As for the Neutrik Speakon connectors I went a little overboard and got the more expensive options, such as the Neutrik Speakon NLT4MP-BAG which is extremely sturdy and can handle far more current than this amp can supply. A more reasonable alternative is the Neutrik NL4MP. Both of them are 4 pole connectors and they were chosen as the 4 pole ones are more sturdy than the 2 pole alternatives. For XLR connectors the Neutrik NC3FD-LX-BAG was chosen. These and the speakon connectors are very good and will probably outlast the amp and can be used in other applications at some later point.

Neutrik NL4MP-BAG and NC3FD-LX-BAG connectors

If you don't want to spend so much on connectors there is always cheaper non Neutrik options you could get.

Anaview AMS1000 build tutorial

Customizing the chassis for the amplifier module

With metal you only get one chance to do it right so measure twice and cut once. Because I chose Neutrik connectors the cutouts etc is easily available on their site, but a caliper for taking measurements yourself will also do the trick.

Mounting the amplifier board into the aluminum chassis

Page 23 in the Anaview AMS1000 specification sheet has a mechanical outline of the amplifier module. I tried drawing and printing it in 1:1, but the holes didn't line up 100 %, so the drawing is rather useless.

Anaview AMS1000 mechanical outline

As you can see the amp module has four holes, one in each corner of the heat sink and is very easy to place into an external chassis. You can use standoffs (such as those under a motherboard in a computer), but assembling the heat sink directly to your chosen metal chassis is better for conducting and dissipating heat – although there is not much heat to talk about since the amp is so efficient.

Securing AMS1000 from Anaview to alu chassis

I mounted it by simply putting it where I'd want it, punch the chassis and drill the proper holes.

Screws, washers and nuts for mounting AMS1000 amp board

Notice the locking washers with teeth, AKA tooth lock washers. The idea here is that they will dig into the anodized aluminum and give ground continuity between the amp's heat sink and the aluminum heat sink. The same technique were used on all rear panel input and output connectors.

To verify continuity throughout the chassis you can use a cheap multimeter. All multimeters I've seen has a continuity test function. It's the setting that makes it beep when there is conductivity between to points, so you basically just put the probes around and verify that the whole thing is grounded.

Anaview AMS1000-2600 class D amplifier module mounted to external chassis

Rear panel cutout for Neutrik Speakon and XLR

To protect the anodized finish masking tape was used to cover any exposed surfaces on the amplifier's rear panel.

Using masking tape to mask exposed surfaces on chassis

The cutouts for Neutrik Speakon and XLR connectors were drawn 1:1 in Sketchup (which is free and easy to use) and printed out 1:1. Again, dimensions were downloaded from Neutrik's website for my particular connectors.

Cutting stensile for Neutrik cutout

The stencil for the Neutrik Speakon and XLR cutouts are being cut. Opted to set this up for four channels in case I wanted future expansion. More on that later.

Stensile for Neutrik amp chassis cutout cut

Setting up the stensile for connector cutout in amp chassis

And mounted into the rear panel of the amp chassis so holes for drilling can be punched.

Punched holes for drilling holes for Speakon and XLR connectors

This part is quite stressful as you need to be fairly precise not to have the terminals misaligned. You can always expand the holes slightly for some wiggle room though and I had to do that to some of the conntectors.

Expanding holes for drilling holes

To get proper seating and placement for the drill this was used to expand the holes a bit. This is known as a countersink bit and was used on both sides of the drilled holes to remove any sharp edges.

Expanded holes ready for drilling holes

Now we're ready for drilling the holes. First up is all the surrounding holes for the M3 screws that will attach the Speakon and XLR connectors.

Securing the work piece to make it ready to be drilled

Holes drilled in amplifier rear panel

To make the holes perfect I used the countersink drill bit again.

Removing any sharp edges in the newly drilled holes

Now, we're ready for the hole saw that will drill the center holes of the connectors.

Hole saw for drilling holes for speakon

Holes for Neutrik Speakon drilled

Then the holes for the XLR connectors needed to be drilled with a smaller hole saw. The hole saws were bought from China through eBay and they were very affordable.

All holes for Neutrik connectors cut

After some rounds of cleaning up residue from the tape, countersinking the holes from the outer and inner side, using the Dremel and a hand file things begin to look pretty sharp. The hand file was actually better than the Dremel for this.

Rear panel cutout for power inlet

Now to the part where I was most afraid to mess up, which is the rectangular cutout for the power inlet – yikes!! I masked the whole rear panel again and had made a 1:1 drawing and printout through Sketchup for the cutout.

power-inlet-cutout-01

power-inlet-cutout-02

Then I cut out the rectangle making sure that the anodized aluminum was also cut and marked with the line and used masking tape in the cut out hole. Why using the knife to get some guide lines cut into the chassis will be obvious later.

power-inlet-cutout-03

power-inlet-cutout-04

Proceeded to drill many close holes,

power-inlet-cutout-05

and used the Dremel to cut between the holes.

power-inlet-cutout-06

Then we're left with this ugly duckling in dire need of hand filing. Notice the lines I cut with the knife earlier: They serve as guides for the filing action. :)

power-inlet-cutout-07

Voila! power-inlet-cutout-08

It fits! Yeeey!

power-inlet-cutout-09

Then drilling the holes for the power inlet and rocker switch. This rocker switch is an IEC320 C14 AC power cord inlet rated for 250V and 15A, more than enough even for two AMS1000 modules if I add a second one later. This was also bought at eBay.

Sanding for continuity through chassis ground

Only thing left now is making sure that there is continuity throughout the chassis for the chassis ground. To sand through the anodized finish I used a Fein multi purpose tool on the inside.

Sanded for continuity through Chassis Ground

It doesn't look good, is probably way overkill, but as a noob I'd rather be safe than sorry and this doesn't show as it's all on the inside of the chassis. Now only thing left is to mount the connectors and power inlet.

Putting in all rear panel connectors and power inlet

All connectors put in place

So that's basically how the rear panel turned out and I was quite satisfied with the result although it's not 100 % perfect. Would be wonderful with some silk screening too, but the startup cost to enable that is prohibitively high. Getting custom stencils and spraying on is a viable option though.

Hooking up AMS1000 to power, inputs and outputs

Power cables and blue female spade crimp connector

For power I chose to use 2.5mm² cables and fully insulated blue female spade crimp connectors (for reference, red 0.5-1.5mm², blue 1.5-2.5mm² and yellow 4-6mm²). For grounding a blue M4 ring was used.

Grounding and power cables

Grounding chassis to earth

Heat shrink tubing was also used to make the connection more secure over time.

Twisting the power cable using a drill

To twist the power cable for a cleaner look and resistance to RFI, a drill was used and then the cable was later cut to the preferred length.

Power cable with female spade connectors and shrink tubing

Notice that on one end of the cable the crimp terminal has a piggy back.

Insulated crimp terminal with piggy back

This is the side that goes onto the Anaview amplifier module and enable you to hook up another one (or several more) in series. This gives you a much cleaner internal cabling layout and less possibility that the AC power will be contaminating the signal chain.

Jumper cable from C14 inlet to rocker switch

In addition a jumper cable from the C14 power inlet to the rocker switch had to be made. I would prefer that this was done internally in the switch to make for an even cleaner look, but you learn as long as you live.

Power inlet connected with cables

Some hot glue was also used around the connector to make for a tight fit and preventing it from wiggling around when you plug or unplug the mains cable. Some type of epoxy glue would probably have been better than this though.

Speaker output cables

Twisting internal speaker cables

Twisted and shrink tubed internal speaker cables

Internal speaker cable with shrink tube and crimp terminal

Signal cables

The small signal cables needed to be soldered to the XLR terminals, but first a ground connection from PIN 1 of the XLR to the XLR chassis had to be made.

Soldering XLR pin 1 to ground

XLR Pin 1 soldered to ground

With some XLR chassis contacts this step would not be needed as pin 1 is already connected to the chassis of the connector, but in this instance it had to be soldered.

Soldering pin 2 hot and pin 3 cold to AMS1000

Here pin 2 is soldered to the hot lead while pin 3 is soldered to the cold lead. Pin 1 is soldered to the connector chassis which in turn grounds to the amplifier chassis. There is no need to run the ground cable from the Anaview module to the XLR connector when you do it this way as there is continuity through the aluminum chassis. If you're using a wood chassis you'd need to ground the XLR connectors to the module though.

Then multiple layers of shrink tube was used as the wires were so damn thin.

Finished DIY amplifier based on Anaview AMS1000

Anaview AMS1000-2600 class D, DIY amplifier finished

As you can see from the internal layout there is space for an additional module or even two or more of the smaller modules, the Anaview AMS0100. In bridge mode the small modules will yield about 100 watts or 2x25w into 8 ohm in stereo mode. They could work very well in a multi way actively crossed over setup as they've got a little less distortion than their big brother AMS1000, especially in the milliwatt range.

As you will see in the review the amp was very impressing and the available space was eventually occupied by a second module.

2 x AMS1000 in aluminium chassis, totalling 4 channels

The get the messyness factor under control I later started over again and tried to use cable ties and what not to get all those cables managed for cleaner look. It worked somewhat, but it's still a bit messy for my liking. I wish they had allowed for a bigger connector than the 17-pin which was more customizable.

Inside dual Anaview AMS1000 DIY amplifier build

I then built two monoblocks using the smaller AMS0100 modules and they impressed me to the extent that I bought six more to build a 6 channel amp. :)

Anaview AMS1000 Review

Anaview AMS1000 sound quality - A subjective review

The sound quality of the Anaview module is great and one word comes to mind: TRANSPARENCY. It's really, really detailed without being sibilant or harsh. To describe the upper mids and treble, I'd say it has extremely good resolution.

Furthermore, every instrument has it's own space within the sound field and they do not bleed into each other. This gives you excellent stereo imaging and depth. Although my system is not set up to be optimized towards great holographic imaging, as that is mainly a function of room acoustics when it's not present in the recording, I still hear clear improvements compared to the amplifiers I've had driving the mids and top end before.

For mid and top end I'd say that the Anaview AMS1000-2600 delivers extremely clear and distinct sonics with very high resolution. I know it's kind of a fad and cliche to say this, and it's even a cliche to write that it is a cliche, but I heard details I didn't know were there before. Sorry about writing that, lol, but as someone wrote in a forum: He finally realized that Nene Cherry sang Golden Ring and not Golden Rain in her track with the same name.

Bass performance of Anaview AMS1000

Bass is very important to music and program reproduction, and research finds it accounts for as much as 20 % of how we perceive audio.

I've tried AMS1000 in several different applications and it performs fantastically in all of them. The most notable example was when it powered a pair of 15" JBL 2235h in big ported boxes with relatively high tuning upwards to 350 Hz. In this application the bass is very detailed and has perfect pitch. Furthermore, the amp has complete grip and makes the bass sound «fast» and «tight». For example the midbass in a kick drum pounds harder in your solar plexus. The lower bass is also very well controlled, better than any amp I've had on them before, even 1kW monoblocks.

I suspect that the high damping factor of the AMS1000 module is at play here. As we know below tuning the driver will act as if in free air and there is no air suspension like we have in sealed boxes to help the driver back to its resting position. Furthermore the driver will unload quickly below tuning and we're running out of excursion fast. These two things combined give you both resonances and distortion and in turn make the bass sound smudged and «slow».

The high damping factor will work as a break and prevent resonances as it prevents the driver from oscillating after an impulse. Think of it like a swing. You push it once and only the air resistance will make the swing stop. It's the same with drivers. If you give a driver an impulse it will oscillate after that impulse. How much and for how long it will oscillate depends on the driver specifiactions and the application at which it is placed in. The key takeaway however, is that the high damping factor, low distortion and peak power output capability of the AMS1000 makes it as usable for bass duty as for top end duty.

After this experience I'm having a hard time deciding if I want to drive the top end, low end or better yet, get another module so I can have it driving both. :)

Future experimentation

The amplifier will also be brought to my avid audiophile brother who has a full McIntosh setup consisting of McIntosh C48 preamp and MC602 power amplifier for comparison. It'll be very interesting to see how the Anaview module stacks up against the Mc602 for full range duty. Will update you guys on that experience here once it has come to pass.

Hiss and noise from Anaview AMS1000

The source is a computer which goes into a Yamaha CX-A5000, top of the line prepro, and from there into miniDSP 4x10 HD for xover and PEQ filters through analog balanced lines.

The Anaview amp does not produce any hiss or noise when the amp is directly connected to the surround processor or disconnected from any other sources.

When the amplifier is connected to the miniDSP 4x10 HD and the internal dip switches in the 4x10HD are set to 4Vrms maximum output the amplifier is practically silent until you put your ear next to the high frequency driver. If you have the 4x10 HD set to 8Vrms maximum output through the internal dip switch there will be slightly audible noise in the high frequency drivers.

It's worth to note that AMS1000 require 6Vrms on its input to give full output so the input signal from miniDSP 4x10HD will be less than required by the amp for full output if you optimize to yield the least amount of noise. However, this is practically not a problem, because 99 % of all high frequency drivers would never be able to handle that amount of power anyways, and when used for low frequency drivers the hiss will not be audible because they are less sensitive than high frequency drivers.

A tweak I'll be looking into is to add a couple of capacitors on the XLR input. to create a high pass filter above the audible range. Reason being that miniDSP 4x10 HD does noise shaping and when you have a broad band amp like the AMS1000 it may modulate that noise and give you all sorts of troubles.

So noise is not a problem with the AMS module, it's miniDSP which is the culprit, but it will not matter practically when you use it in 4Vrms mode on high frequency drivers or 8Vrms on low frequency drivers.

Conclusions and thoughts about AMS1000

Thoughts on the Anaview AMS1000 build from a noob's perpective

As you've seen most of the work is simply drilling holes, cable management, soldering, crimping and generally simple setup.  Very similar to the Hypex DIY modules indeed.

As for the pricing of these modules Profusion PLC has bulk rates and this module runs at \$450 for 1 unit and \$410 each for 10 units + shipping and duties. An alternative to the AMS1000 module from Hypex would be two UcD400HG with HxR and one SMPS1200A400 power supply, totaling \$489 with current exchange rates.

The Hypex will yield 240w per channel into 8 ohms whereas the AMS1000 will yield 170w per channel. It would be very interesting to compare Hypex UcD400HG with HxR to the AMS1000 as they are closely priced and substitutes in applications such as these. Also, it would be very interesting to know how the cheaper AMS0100 module performs against the AMS1000.

The AMS0100 is only \$143 for one unit, \$129 for two units and \$115 for ten. With two units you'd have 2x100w into 8 ohms running them in bridge mode for \$258 + shipping and tax. That's affordable, but unfortunately the lowish input impedance is a concern with these modules as well.

One thing I like about Anaview modules is that they are very flexible with functions for showing clipping, powering a separate add on amp module off of it's power supply and other types of boards through it's auxiliary power output.

Ideas on further improvements or addons

Some further optimization to this build could be to isolate the signal cables going to the XLR terminals from the speaker output cables although noise is absolutely not an issue inherit in the module or the implementation. However, optimizing it may yield better sleep, haha.

It would also be nice to have a 12V front mounted latching switch for powering the unit on and off and not just the rocker switch at the rear panel. A 12V latching switch with onboard led would also let you know if the unit is powered up or not.

A thing under contemplation is adding another AMS1000, two bridged AMS0100 modules or a pair of UcD400HG modules. All three options are tempting.

Adding individual passive attenuators to each channel would give the option of matching the gain between the modules in their respective applications, and could also work to lower potential noise coming from the source, such as miniDSP.

All in all, I'm very satisfied with the build and it is certainly not the last build I'll do. Hopefully I'll be able to afford a Rigol oscilloscope and some big power resistors to measure the performance from my current and future amplifiers too. That would be a lot of fun!

Low input impedance of Anaview modules?

The AMS modules are so called OEM modules which were designed to let the customer choose or design the input circuitry. This is highlighted in the application notes of the AMS1000 specification sheet (PDF) from page 32. An added circuit is shown at page 34, but it is only necessary if the earlier precautions are not followed for whatever reason.

In a forum post at DIYAudio.com one of the Anaview engineers replied to a post concerning the input impedance.

If it [the source] is balanced I assume the output impedance is identical on both hot and cold and in that case the only thing that will happen due to the "high" output resistance is that you loose some gain. The cable impedance through 3m should not cause anything audible.

So, given that you have a short signal cable run, running the unit balanced and the output impedance of the source is identical on hot and cold (often pin 2 and 3 on XLR connectors), the loss of gain will be linear, meaning it wont affect the frequency response of the amplifier.

A forum member at DIYAudio.com even states that the lack of an input stage can be what makes the Anaview so transparent in some situations. He's saying that while the Hypex NC400 has a prebuilt input stage to match all types of sources, these stages can be a tradeoff, because all circuits may introduce distortion. The Anaview modules are OEM and present the DIY'er with a challenge for the input stage, but at the same time you may not need one if your source is a good match in terms of impedance, hence you bypass the whole input stage and the benefit is more transparency. This hypothesis seems very logical.

I'm personally using miniDSP 4x10 HD infront of the AMS1000 module. It has a highish output impedance of 560Ω (=0.56kΩ) on the balanced outputs. Page 7 of the Anaview spec sheet states that the input impedance has minimum of 1.37kΩ and maximum of 14.5kΩ. If the signal loss is linear with frequency it will be between

$$20 \cdot \log_{10}\left( \frac{1.37}{1.37+0.560} \right) = -3\text{ dB} $$

and

$$20 \cdot \log_{10}\left( \frac{14.5}{14.5+0.560} \right) = -0.3 \text{ dB} $$

Notice that as the input impedance grows bigger and bigger compared to the source' output impedance the fraction converges towards 1, and when it is 1 the natural logarithm is 0, which give you a loss of 0dB. The idea is to have a high input impedance compared to the output impedance of your source.

If the input impedance varies over frequency and the signal loss is not uniform across frequencies the frequency response will be affected as the gain loss will be different at different frequencies.

I wrote Anaview directly a while back asking why they are giving such a broad range between the minimum and maximum input impedance, but unfortunately didn't get a reply.

Personally, I don't know how or even if it will affect the performance of these modules when used without a buffer. My AMS1000 sounds stellar without a buffer in combination with miniDSP 4x10 HD and Yamaha CX-A5000 prepro, both of which has a fairly high output impedance in comparison to the input impedance of the AMS module.

At the same time I think it would be nice if Anaview also made an affordable, suitable and optional buffer stage for the amp to remove any concerns about the amp not performing optimally given the output impedance of the source and long signal cables which will affect the series resistance. The complexity of adding a separate circuit could most definitely cost them sales from concerned citizens, although I don't want to oversell this as a big concern as I have yet to see a single person complaining that the sonic qualities are lacking. It's been a question where people are wondering if even more performance can be derived by using a (good) input stage.

style="display:inline-block;width:728px;height:90px"
data-ad-client="ca-pub-9767369813649157"
data-ad-slot="7778292969">

e-mail icon

Others who read Anaview AMS1000 DIY Build Tutorial also read

Anaview AMS1000 amplifier module

More Anaview amplifier modules have arrived and the AMS1000 amplifier build is upgraded from two to four channels.

Anaview AMS0100 monoblock build tutorial for beginners

Tutorial on how to use the Anaview AMS0100 class D amplifier modules to build a pair of 100W monoblocks.

Anaview AMS0100 six channel amplifier

A quick «show and tell» to inspire you with many pictures of a DIY six channel bridged Anaview AMS0100 amplifier module build.

Discussion on Anaview AMS1000 DIY Build Tutorial

Nice writeup!
I have built several amplifiers with AMS modules, and use a stepped drill bit for holes.
no worries about impedance matching, but still curious about trying a buffer stage. My source (hypex dclp) gives 100 ohm out so it should be within limits.
Have you tried a capacitor on the inputs to reduce on/off pop?

Thank you! :) The idea here is to inspire noobs like myself to give it a whirl, not seasoned gentlemen like yourself :)

Good idea. Recently bought a very affordable 3 piece kit of stepped drill bits ranging from 4-32mm on eBay and will be using them for my next project. :) It's probably much better than the hole saws I used here although it worked great in the thin aluminum rear panels here.

Yes, curious about an input buffer too and that may be a challenge I venture into at some point, but as of right now my skills are not up to par with a challenge like that. :) Been reading a lot about it and not sure there is much benefit in this application. As I understand it the input buffer is often used as a way for manufacturers to tweak the sound to their house sound and I would rather have less gain than added distortion from a buffer circuit. Also wonder how much better this can really get as I'm not missing anything with the AMS1000, but curious, absolutely! :D

I've not noticed any on/off pop but these speakers have a passive xover between mid, hf (horn) and uhf. They're actively crossed over between the bass and those drivers. When the amplifier is turned off there is music playing for a few seconds, probably because there is still juice in the capacitors. Got some plans for a fully active system with AMS0100 and I will be using a capacitor or a linear phase circuit to protect against pops and user error such as setting wrong xovers. Some people also use bulbs for current limiting but those steal dynamics and is a no go.

I run two Ams1000 for mid and top in a four way horn system. There is a pop when turning on, but not too disturbing. PowerSwitch is two pole circuit breaker. Im not too worried, but it would be a sad way to blow a beryllium diagraphm. Considering adding a protection cap, but love to have as little as possible between source and speaker! Agree with your thoughts about buffer. I cannot really see what it would improve, but curious anyway
Nice if you keep adding information on this site. Great to have a resource on Anaview builds

Nice! :D Fully understand your concerns about the Be diaphragms, don't think I could stomach having those hooked up w/o protection due to the $$$ involved. Shame that there are always tradeoffs in audio. I too want to keep a clean signal chain, which is why I think that a buffer may not be a good idea, but just like you I'm curious (and eager to build/play).

The same goes for linear protection circuits which may yield added distortion or simple protection caps which affects the phase. Will do blind A/B testing with and without a protection cap to determine if it's audible when my time comes, if it's not I am going to be pragmatic about it and have it there regardless of OCD to keep the chain clean, haha.

Sure will do. Big Anaview fan already and very eager to get more modules, drivers and fun to start doing something on bigger scale and post about it here, very sure you know what I mean :D This was my first attempt at DIY within electronics and there was no black magic smoke, just solid sonics at the end of the journey, so safe to say I got a real taste for it now. :D Nowadays the possibilities for someone willing to learn are close to endless!

If you add a cap to your horns I'd appreciate hearing back if it's audible or not.

Hello, thanks for this awesome and easy to follow post. I am currently using the AMS1000 module in stereo and I love it. I would now like to try dual mono blocks, but I'm confused which module to bridge, the 100 or the 1000. I'm happy with the power of the ams1000 on my monitors and am worried two 1000s in bridge mode might be too much. So my question is, would dual 100s be enough for 4 ohm speakers with a 300 watt max power recommendation (each)? Thanks!

Hello Mark

You are very welcome and thank you for the compliment. :) I know right, these are fantastic, I feel like I've found gold, haha.

I'm not sure if you've seen the AMS0100 monoblock build tutorial since you are commenting on the AMS1000 stereo amp tutorial? In that tutorial I also wrote a review with some comparative comments about the two modules. In short they are both equal as long as you don't push the smaller amps as far as I'm concerned. That being said, I'm a firm believer in bigger is better and having ample amplifier headroom, so I'm pressed to say that I'd go for two of the bigger amplifiers if you don't mind the added expenditure.

My reasoning goes like this: As the amplifier has to do more work the distortion will increase, hence more headroom is always better. It doesn't matter if the power rating is 30w or 300w for a speaker or a transducer, you can use a 1kW amplifier on both of them and it will ensure that there is a lot of headroom so the amplifier will always have great working conditions and be able to produce the signal with very little distortion.

If you use a 300w amplifier on a pair speakers rated at 300w, the amplifier will have high distortion when it reaches the maximum output (often 1 % THD+N). If you use a 600w amplifier on those speakers the amp will only be working at half capacity when it reaches the limits of the speakers yielding lower distortion. All of this being said the biggest contributing factor to distortion is not the amplifier, it is the drivers themselves, but all else equal a bigger amp with more headroom will generally always be better.

I say generally, because some powerful amplifiers will perform poorly in the mW range. Maybe even up to 10w, and those first watts are very important too because they are used to reach normal listening levels and produce an important part of all dynamics with speakers of average sensitivity. If your speakers are 85dB efficient it means it will produce 85dB of SPL with 1w. For every 3dB increase you will need to double the power.

So again, consider this: If your music has a crest factor of 21dB (crest factor is the difference between the average level and the peaks in a dynamic piece of music) you need to double the power 7 times(!) because 21dB/3dB=7. So if you use 1w to play 85dB and a dynamic peak in the music is 85+21=106dB the amplifier has to deliver 128w to produce it(!) and you also want some headroom so those 128w does not clip the amp or add a lot of distortion.

I could go on and on about this, talking about how manufacturer's sensitivity specifications are often measured at 1kHz, and that the sensitivity is far lower at lower frequencies. That they fudge the data to make it seem better than it is and so on, but bottom line is that if you have two equal amplifiers where one is more powerful than the other the bigger one is always better.

You may wonder why then did I build the AMS0100 monoblocks? It's because they are driving a very efficient tweeter which has a sensitivity of 105dB and can handle about 40W. I'm deaf before I reach the power rating of 40W(!) I also have a pair of compression drivers in big horns which have a sensitivity above 111dB. Those sensitive drivers will never put any stress on these small monoblocks so in this application they are very suitable.

For speakers with passive crossover networks which limits power to the tweeter with resistors etc, you are going to burn amplifier power there too, so in short, and with some reservations as I don't know everything about your speakers, I'd build a second AMS1000.

Man, I'm sorry about the extremely long answer, and I hope I didn't offend you by all the technical stuff in case you already know all of this, lol. I should probably write a longer article on this topic for people who don't know.


Hello again, Mark. Your question and my lengthy response to you inspired me to write an article about how much amplifier power we need and how to consider power in relation to speaker sensitivity, crest factor, listening levels and so on, so if you are interested in understanding how to choose the right amplifier, you would probably benefit from reading that. I also made power calculator which will help people in your situation, and it's in that article. Hope it benefits you.

Sadly, the Anaview Modules cannot be bought anymore.

DIYGeezer's picture

As of right now, and I don't know if this will change, you can purchase directly from the ETAL Group company which owns Anaview, but I believe they have a MQO of three to five units or something like that so you may need to drum up a group buy.

You can try this email. mark.stanley(you_know_what)etalgroup.com

But yeah, I agree these are not good news. All my dealings with Profusion has been plesant so I was kind of bummed out about it. I have enough modules for now, but will need more later and if I can't get them I will go bananas.

Hypex has also developed some similar modules, based on the NC topology. The new Hypex modules have an onboard PSU and will also have a DSP hanger module which is awesome.

I guess this is what happens when a company is acquired. First they were known as Abletec, then it became Anaview, then they were acquired by Etal Group who don't seem to care about the DIY market. Hypex on the other hand has been a more DIY friendly company which wisely decided to now also offer PSU and Amplifier on one PCB. For DIY class D you are now confined to cheap Chinese refboard knock offs of known chips, relatively expensive but high quality Hypex boards, obscure Audiopower, insanely expensive NewClass-D or truly DIY PCB construction from scratch. Anaview filled a niche as a direct competitor quality wise to Hypex with far more economic offerings and I am truly sad to see them gone from the DIY stage. Hopefully they will return at some point in time, but I am afraid not.

Hi, I am building an amp with this module but it doesn't pass any sound, could it be that I need to remove all the wires from the cable kit?

Maybe one of the wires is triggering the mute or disable function?

Thanks!

DIYGeezer's picture
Hello,
This sounds strange. But yes, if you're shorting the wire for mute or disable to GND you're not going to get any audio output. When you power it on with the mains you should also hear some relays switching, same about 20-30 seconds after you've removed or switched it off the mains.

Hi there DIYgeezer

I wanted to thank you for the GREAT write ups you did on your Anaview projects.
As I'm planning to build my own double AMS1000-2600 amp, I was curious about the grounding of these.

I noticed that in your "double" AMS1000 build, you ran ground cables to each amp module, whereas in the first build - the one with the single module - you didn't bother to connect the ground and just ran the ground straight to the chassis. The same went for the XLR inputs.

As anyone would be I guess I'm worried about creating ground loops, so I wanted to ask you what in your experience was the best solution, and was there a specific reason for you to decide to run the ground anyway?

Oh, and also I noticed in the "double" build that the modules are sitting on spacers away from the chassis, so you loose the advantage that you lentioned of dissipating the heat that way; does this have to do with the ground as well?

Cheers mate, and thanks again.

Sam

DIYGeezer's picture
Hello and thank you very much for your kind words, Sam! :)

The best way to ground these amps is to use star grounding. I have not yet done so as there has not been a need, but you would do it by running all grounds to a central point of your own choosing and then run ground earth to that point. That also includes the ground on the XLR's.

The spacers were eventually used because I had them, haha. They are conductive so they do not affect the grounding. They do affect the heat dissipation negatively, but not to the extent that it matters in my application. If I were going to push them I'd opt for more surface area, but they run rather cool in my application so it has not been a worry.