Anaview AMS0100 monoblock build tutorial for beginners

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Anaview AMS0100 monoblock build tutorial for beginners

In this tutorial you will see the process of building two small monoblock amplifiers with 100 Watts to boot. We will be using the very affordable Anaview AMS0100-2300 class D amplifier modules and a very sleek looking black anodized aluminum chassis to achieve this with as few power tools as possible.

Since this is a very detailed tutorial and review you can use the table of contents to jump around.

  1. Introduction to the Anaview amplifier modules and the Modushop chassis
  2. Detailed parts list of the amplifier build
  3. Anaview AMS0100 build tutorial
  4. Anaview AMS0100 Review, how does it sound?

Anaview modules and Modushop Chassis

Anaview AMS0100 amplifier module and Modushop

The core idea of this build is to use as few tools as possible to make a pair of sleek looking small but powerful monoblocks with excellent build and sound quality at an affordable price.

This is my second Anaview amplifier tutorial. I wrote a very detailed tutorial on building the the bigger Anaview AMS1000 amplifier which may be of interest to you. There are some redundancies between these two tutorials as they are meant to stand on their own, but if anything in this tutorial is unclear you may find your answer there. As always you could always post a question in the comment section and I will help you if I can. :)

Why Anaview?

Anaview AMS0100 VS AMS1000

I first got one of the big, chunky and powerful AMS1000 amp modules, built it and was so thoroughly impressed with it that I knew Anaview had the right characteristics for me so I ended up buying a second AMS1000 and two of the smaller AMS0100's which we're going to build here.

The big guns are extremely transparent and detailed without sounding harsh, they're very holographic (probably because of good channel separation) and has a tight grip on the speaker yielding tight, punchy and precise bass. What more can you ask for? :D

Furthermore, it's easy and borders on fool proof to build them due to the cable kit and onboard power supply. And last but not least, it's very affordable. Was my expectations of the smaller modules met? The short answer is YES! The long answer is in the review at the end of this tutorial.

The AMS0100-2300 amplifier modules

Anaview AMS0100-2300 amplifier module

The Swedish engineered and patented AMS0100 module has an onboard power supply and can be run in stereo for 2x25w or in bridge mode for 1x100w into 8 Ω. This is quite impressing considering the very small form factor, but what's more impressing is the great sound quality of these amps, but more on that later.

The amplifier has a vast array of functions such as standby, mute, clipping signals and +/-14V axillary power output which can be used for an add on module such as a DSP board. In this tutorial we will go for the minimalistic implementation without any bells and whistles.

The excellent specification sheet (PDF) can be downloaded from Anaview's website while the AMS0100 modules can be purchased from Profusion PLC in the UK.

Important to note is that the dimensions in the spec sheet does not include the protruding connectors, so remember to take that into account when finding a chassis. The chassis I'm using is what I would consider to be the minimum size.

Chassis for Anaview AMS0100

Anaview AMS0100-2300 amplifier modules in Galaxy 147 amplifier enclosure

The chassis is a gorgeous black anodized Galaxy 147 with a 10mm massive front panel and it has room to house this module perfectly. It's quite heavy for the small size and certainly gives you the feel of «built like a tank». The machining is excellent and everything fits together without any problems.

The internal dimensions of the Galaxy 147 are 173x102x40 mm [6.8x4.0x1.6 "] while the outer dimensions are 183x124x52 mm [7.2x4.9x2 "] with rubber feet, and again, the 10mm thick front panel.

Flat packed Galaxy 147 chassis from Modushop for Anaview AMS0100

It came flat packed at a very reasonable shipping cost. The amplifier enclosure came with some extra silver screws in addition to the black ones, giving you the option to personalize it a little bit. I'm contemplating replacing the thick front panel with a piece of American Walnut, but that's outside the scope of this guide.

The amplifier chassis is of very high quality, was bought from Italian based Modushop AKA Hi-Fi 2000 in Italy and I will certainly use them again. They have a vast selection of different enclosures for any thinkable DIY project and if you are unlucky and mess up or dink your chassis, Modushop sells spare panels so you can always have a sharp looking amp.

The biggest undertaking of a project like this is drilling and doing the cutouts. If you don't want to do these things yourself they can CNC machine it for you and even anodize it after milling. These services come at a cost and you will also need to supply them with CAD drawings or pay them to make them for you.

I also found this Modushop coupon will give you a 10 % discount on their whole store, excluding shipping. 060350

Parts list for the AMS0100 amplifier build

Anaview AMS0100 amplifier parts

This is the gist of what I used for both amplifiers.

DESCRIPTION NAME PCS SUPPLIER
Amplifier chassis Galaxy 147 2 Modushop
Amplifier board Anaview AMS0100-2300 2 Profusion PLC
Cable kit for amp board
AMS0100-CONNECTOR
2 Profusion PLC
XLR, signal input Neutrik NC3FD-LX-BAG 2 eBay / Amazon / PE
SpeakOn, speaker output Neutrik NL4MP 2 eBay / Amazon / PE
Wires N/A N/A eBay / Amazon / PE
Power inlet with switch * See star 2 eBay
Crimp terminal for GND Round crimp terminal 2 eBay
Crimp terminals for misc Spade crimp terminal 12 eBay
Brass standoff ** M3, 12mm brass standoff 10 eBay
Tooth lock washers M3 tooth lock washer 20 eBay
Countersunk screws M3, 20mm black countersunk 8 eBay
Silver socket head screws M3, 6mm socket head 10 eBay
Nuts M3 nuts 10 eBay
Heat shrink tubing Heat shrink tubing kit N/A eBay

* Search for «AC 250V 10A Rocker Switch IEC320 C14 Male Plug Power Inlet Socket w Fuse» to find my inlets. They are intended for 220-250V only. If you're on 110V, you need a substitute. Furthermore, the clamping mechanism is meant to sit in a 1.5mm thick panel, while the chassis has a 3mm rear panel so you need to trim 1.5mm off the clamps on each plug unless you can find one for 3mm panels. They look like this.

Fused IEC320 C14 power inlet with rocker switch, SPST

** The total length of the brass standoffs are 12mm, 6mm is tapped and 6mm is the hexagonal standoff.

AMS0100 build tutorial

Making the chassis cutouts with CAD drawings

First I made CAD drawings in Google Sketchup (which is free for non-commercial users). You can download both drawings if you want to replicate my build, however, please make sure that they are correct for you by dry fitting the module and connectors on the paper. My printer does not print exactly 1:1, so 1mm in Sketchup is actually 1.003846mm. Yes, it's a small tolerance, but it adds up and makes things out of whack. You can drill a bit bigger holes and have some tolerance though.

The first drawing is the bottom panel which fits the module to the amplifier base (download sketchup file).

Anaview AMS0100 amplifier board mounting

The second one for the rear panel cutouts (download sketchup file).

Anaview AMS0100 rear panel layout

You obviously need to use the same connectors as me if using the rear panel cutouts. As you can see the fit is quite tight so patience, focus and a lot of grinding are your friends.

Making the holes in the amplifier chassis

Cutting the masking for the Anaview amplifier chassis

After having printed the guide drawings use a ruler and a super sharp knife to cut them.

Mask AMS0100 chassis panels

Then proceed to tape them to the aluminum pieces

Taped chassis panels for Anaview AMS0100 ready for drilling

and you should end up with something like this. Notice that the tape enables you to see through it.

Punching the amplifier chassis before drilling

Then use something extremely sharp to first mark the holes. I used a protractor's point first, then a screw which I punched with a hammer.

Countersink drill bit to avoid wandering drill bit

After that I used a countersink bit to lower the likelihood of the drill bit start wandering.

Chassis drilled and prepared for the AMS0100 amplifier module

I use a bit of masking tape on the drill bit to avoid it from drilling excessively.

Preparing the power inlet cutout for the amplifier rear panel

Because the IEC power inlet with a rocker switch needs a squared cutout we need to prepare it for filing. Use a ruler and cut hard into the metal – again with a sharp knife – this will leave you with marks to guide you while grinding it later. To protect the chassis mask it up again.

Rear panel pre drilling for Neutrik connectors

I choose to drill some guiding holes before using that large stepped drill bit, because it's hard to keep it stable without a guiding hole.

Holes drilled for Neutrik connector terminals

Here you can see the holes for the Neutrik Speakon and XLR connectors drilled. I'm holding the small piece in a vice with soft wood to avoid scratches and marks. I also suggest using some soap or drill oil while drilling these big holes and take your time to avoid heat buildup. A tip is to drill the holes a little bit small and use a hand file to grind them to size by continually trying the connectors.

You may also notice the markings for the power inlet cutout.

Drilling many holes to remove the power inlet square

I then proceeded to tape it up again and drilled many small holes on the inside of the outer markings for the power inlet.

Power inlet cutout in the Anaview AMS0100 chassis cut with Dremel and a saw blade

After drilling all the holes I used a Dremel tool to cut through enough to fit the saw blade and remove the chunk of aluminum. You can also carve away the inner square by using a drill bit, but you need to be careful and show lots of patience.

Power inlet in amp chassis filed for IEC power inlet

After putting the piece back into the vice I kept grinding to my heart's content while continually checking to see if the IEC power inlet would fit.

Finished cutouts in Anaview AMS0100

After a lot of cleaning using regular dish washing soap and hot water this is what the piece looked like.

Mounting the connectors to the rear panel

IEC Power inlet with rocker switch, Neutrik XLR and Neutrik Speakon in the amp chassis

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This is what the rear panel ended up looking like after mounting the IEC power inlet with a rocker switch, Neutrik SpeakOn and Neutrik XLR connectors. Notice that the IEC power inlet is held in place with friction, so a tight fit is key. This inlet was meant for 1.5mm thick panels so I had to carefully cut all four plastic clamps as this panel is 3mm. I then used some heat glue to secure it.

The Neutrik connectors are screwed in so there you are a freer to have some tolerances because flaws will be hidden behind the lip of the connectors.

If you don't fancy making that squared cutout Neutrik also has some PowerCon connectors which are round, but then you will need to install a (preferably circular) latching or rocker switch if you want the ability to turn the amplifier on and off without pulling the cord.

As you can see the rear panel is quite populated so there's not a lot of room if you want to use this chassis for a two channel config with these modules. If that's the case you could use the 4 pole Neutrik connector together with a 6-pin XLR connector.

Mounting the AMS0100 module to the chassis

Brass standoffs mounted in the amp chassis

The AMS0100 module has components on both sides of the PCB so you will need to rise it above the amplifier chassis, especially if the chassis is conductive like mine. Above are very commonly used brass standoffs, readily available on eBay. You have probably seen these if you have ever mounted a motherboard in a PC too, so you may have some lying around.

Brass standoffs mouned with nuts to the amplifier chassis

I tapped the chassis, but to be sure I also locked them tight using tooth washers and nuts. The tooth locking washers dig into the anodized aluminum and make sure that there's a path for grounding as well.

Anaview AMS0100 amplifier board mounted to Galaxy chassis

And we finally have the AMS0100 amp module secured to the base of the Galaxy 147 chassis! YEEEY! :)

Rubber feet below amplifier chassis

Also note that you get four rubber feet with the chassis, so it won't be resting on the nuts like half the human population. :)

Wiring the Anaview AMS0100 amplifier

The AMS0100 module can be bought with an optional but highly recommended cable connector kit. You should make life easy on yourself and get it because you won't get far without it.

17 pin signal cable in the cable connector kit for AMS0100 amplifier module

Fortunately, the kit comes with a pre terminated 17 pin connector. This cable is used for the signal inputs as well as other functions such as mute and standby.

Cable kit with crimp pins and cable connectors for Anaview AMS0100 amplifier module

The kit also comes with connectors and crimping pins from JST (very similar to Molex type plugs). These are used for power in and speaker outputs. They don't come with cables and are obviously not terminated. The issue with these crimping pins is that terminating them properly require a special tool. On the positive side it leaves those of you who like to dabble in exotic cables an option to employ them.

The crimp pins are aptly named JST SVH-41T-P1.1 and they accept wires from 16-22AWG (or 1.3-0.36mm²).

Furthermore, the original tool from JST will run you about $490(!!!). Unfortunately, I was unable to find a cheap Chinese crimping tool for these pins, so any suggestions are highly welcomed. Instead of getting a solder less connection like this

Crimped wires with JST type crimp pins for Anaview amplifier module properly crimped

I had to improvise:

JST crimp connector installation without crimping plier

First, I secured the cable to the table and made sure it was inside the crimp pin,

02-crimp-connector

then I bent the parts which was intended to go around the insulation of the wire around the copper. The part intended to go into the wire itself is impossible to bend without pliers.

03-crimp-connectors-ready

Then I soldered it very carefully (there are excellent soldering tutorials on Youtube). I was also very careful to have enough insulation so that when the pin went into the socket no naked wire was exposed. I used heat shrinking on some wires to accomplish this. After this process you just push the pin into the connector and it will snap into place and sit there securely. There are videos on Youtube on how to get the pins out again if you make a mistake. HINT: You can get a tool or use a toothpick in combination with a woman's touch.

You need to do this with 4 connectors for each amplifier when using the Anaview AMS0100 modules as monoblocks. Here is an overview of which connectors you need to make.

Overview of connector pins to use to set AMS0100 in BTL mode

CONNECTOR PIN DESCRIPTION
CON1 1 AC_N Neutral (Power inlet)
CON1 2 AC_L Live (Power inlet)
CON3 1 Positive (Speaker output)
CON4 2 Negative (Speaker output)

Please look at the amplifier board and notice that connector 1 has no center pin, so pin 1 and 2 are the outer left and outer right ones.

As for the signal cable input (the 17-pin connector) you should wire them like this to your XLR connector.

XLR CONNECTOR 2 PIN
GND (Pin 1) Pin 3
HOT (Pin 2) Pin 2 and 5
COLD (Pin 3) Pin 1 and 4

* All this information was derived from the specification sheet and may be subject to change at Anaview's discretion. Please check out the AMS0100 spec sheet to confirm these details.

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Rear panel wiring

Earth ground connected to rear panel

Ground earth is connected to the rear panel using one of the Neutrik SpeakOn screws and tooth locking washers above and below the ring crimp terminal. Because the case is conductive the entire case will be grounded.

Jumper to initiate the rocker switch on the power inlet

The rocker switch was initiated by using a small jumper made out of some wire and a pair of spade insulated crimp terminals.

Internal power cable twisted with drill

By using a drill I then proceeded to twist the wires on the cable that goes from the power inlet to the amplifier board.

Power cable connected to the IEC power inlet on Anaview AMS0100 monoblock amplifier

It was then cut to length and again using insulated crimp terminals I connected it to the IEC power inlet.

After this I soldered the SpeakOn terminals to the speaker outputs of the amp board and used heat shrink tubing to avoid potential shorts between the poles.

Braided signal cable on the 17 pin connector in the Anaview AMS cable connector kit

Then I braided (Google is your friend!) the signal cable wires according to the table above, soldered it to the XLR connector and used some heat shrink tubing and screw the amplifier case together.

Anaview AMS0100-2300 amplifier in Galaxy 147 assembled with top off

So this is what one of the amplifier modules finally ended up looking like. It's quite crowded in there, but it's all good and I can't hear any unwanted interference although things are closely meshed together in there.

Also notice that I didn't cut away all the unused wires on the 17-pin connector. I removed the stripped parts, taped it with some electrical tape to make sure there are no shorts between the pins and lumped it in there with some zip ties in case I would want to use some additional features in the future.

Anaview AMS0100 Review

Anaview AMS0100 monoblocks – The Verdict

Anaview AMS0100 monoblock amplifiers running cold as ice

I thought this image was very suitable for these amplifiers, and yes I took them outside to pose for the camera, haha. The amps run cold as ice – at least in comparison to quite a few amplifiers I've tried in the past. :) When these amps are idling they only draw 5.8 watts each and with so little generated heat there's no real danger of the capacitors drying out anytime soon. The longevity is likely to be very good on these modules because of this.

One caveat is that as they are idling the power supply is making a very high pitched continuous squeaky tone. I have heard similar oddities with phone chargers and other types of AC/DC adapters and wall warts. Transformer noise is quite common and it's probably what's going on here. It's not like the regular transformer 50/60 Hz hum, this is a high pitched tone. To make sure I measured my main line and it measured 231V which is well within spec for these amplifiers, but it's not a big concern as you can't hear it unless you're really, really close to the amplifiers.

When I use them to operate an efficient tweeter (JBL 2404) they are silent as the grave. No hiss or hum of any kind. A pitch black background is extremely important as it vastly improves the dynamics of your system and enable you to hear miniscule details piercing through the music. A low noise floor allow you to listen to lower levels and still experience dynamics and details, so it's an important feat of a good amplifier.

Reviewing the sound quality of Anaview AMS0100

Two Anaview AMS0100 monoblock amplifiers

So how does the Anaview AMS0100 perform in terms of sound quality and did it meet my expectations? The answers are it's GREAT and YEAH! :D

In fact, they are so good that I intend to gradually buy more and use Anaview amplifier modules in my entire setup. I run a fully active system so every driver has its own amp. As a side note I'm currently experimenting with a fully active 5-way DIY speakers with big horns + a subwoofer system, so I'm very glad to have found Anaview as I don't have to keep looking for good amplifiers. :) My comments on the amps' performance are based on testing with different speakers such as Klipsch and JBL in addition to my big rig, so it has been tested in passive setups as well as active ones.

Drilling down and isolating factors of sound quality

Although AMS0100 doesn't have the same power reserves as the bigger modules they certainly hold their own and are just as good if not better in the top end where I normally use them. According to the spec sheet AMS0100 has lower distortion than AMS1000 in the milliwatt range where they mostly operate in my application. Personally, I can't hear a difference between the two amplifiers in the top end, they are just as good.

Both Anaview AMS0100 monoblock amplifiers

The midrange is also extremely detailed and vocals sound incredibly present and real. This track for example, «Malia & Boris Blank - [Convergence #02] Embraceable Moon» has some beautiful female vocals which send chills down my spine. It's absolutely lovely, haha.

There's also good news in the bass department. These small amps have a tight grip on the driver and the midbass is crisp, tight and punchy but it lacks the power reserves to drive less sensitive drivers into concert levels while maintaining low distortion, so that's where the AMS1000 modules come in handy. ;) As we know the transducer will be the biggest contributing factor to distortion as excursion creeps up and out of the linear field of the motor, but as the amp lets out of steam it will lose control and start clipping hard.

Ideally, I like to have 9dB or more amplifier headroom and because you need double the power for every 3dB increase in SPL, headroom of 9dB translates to 1/8th the power rating: Hence on this 100W amp, I try to stay below 12.5W. This ensures that the amplifier will operate close to optimal conditions. This may sound strange, but you wouldn't want to drive your car to the limit and if you did it wouldn't like it.

Internal components of Anaview AMS0100 monoblock amplifier

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Upon direct comparison with Rotel RB-1562 (some years old so maybe not a fair comparison(?)) the Rotel fell hard on its face on all parameters. Where the Rotel was smudgy and grainy the Anaview was crystal clear and pin pointed. The best way to describe it is like this: The Rotel throws everything at you in a bowl of soup, while the Anaview is layered and every instrument has its own dedicated pocket in space. It's denser with more separation between everything, possibly due to the higher resolution and lower distortion.

The best way to describe Anaview it is that you can have things happening simultaneously in the bass, mids and highs and it doesn't sound bloated. The vocals can be isolated in a sky of deep bass while the high hats will pierce through it all and everything is completely distinct and you can hear minute details in the midst of a dynamic explosion. These characteristics are what I value the most about these amps.

I can't say enough positive about these modules. Anaview's AMS series has really changed my perception of what class D amplifiers can do. The only reason I miss class A/B is that I now need to use a heater during the winter, but they're cool and comfortable during the summer though. :)

Thank you for reading and happy DIY'ing. :)

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Discussion on Anaview AMS0100 monoblock build tutorial for beginners

"This may sound strange, but you wouldn't want to drive your car to the limit and if you did it wouldn't like it." - This sounds strange because it's poor comparison. Why would I want to drive my car at 12%? Also this thing has lower THD pumping 50W into 8Ohms than it has while on 12W. Please elaborate.

Hi man.
Great stuff :-)
Would you be interested in making more of these and selling?
Kind regards
João

DIYGeezer's picture
Hello and thank you very much, João :)

Unfortunately, I don't think I would be able to do it profitably, but luckily Amphion in Finland seem to be doing just that. I recently found out that they are using Anaview modules in their amp offerings, their AMP 100 mono is as close to my build as it gets. Same exact module etc.

Search for "Amphion Amp100 mono" and you'll find it. Hope that helps!

Hi,
Great read and got me convinced to buy the stuff and build it!
Why do you use the Neutrik NL4MP? Shouldn't a NL2MP do the job?
You would only need one positive and one negative, right?
Kind regards,
Bas
ps. more questions to come once i start building ;-)

DIYGeezer's picture
Hi, and congrats on taking the plunge! :)

Yes, NL2MP will do the trick, but NL4MP doesn't cost a lot more, plus it will fit cables with 4 pole connectors, whereas the NL2MP will not (as far as I know). That could be an issue if you run into cables with four pole connectors.

Another reason why I got the NL4MP was that I had plans to do bridge mode on the two unused poles on one connector, but I never did.

Let us know how your amp build comes along and what you think about the sonic attributes, please. :)

Fantastic tutorial! Inspired me to grab 4 modules and have at it. Do you have any recommendations for how to implement the clipping feature on a similar bridged version? Many thanks.

Fantastic tutorial. Well into my own build, but wondering if you could simply explain the execution of the CLIP feature, to add to a BTL build. Much appreciated.